bionaf.blogg.se

By comparison, the dining room is subdued and food-centric. Or bypass all that energy and pass into the dimly lit dining room with a quiet sushi bar. Enter to a lively bar setting with soaring red origami birds hanging from the ceiling. Rather Imoto is very much “today” in décor and set-up.

Imoto in Victory Park is not as formal as the original Abacus. The Imoto focus on Asian flavors and classic French techniques, especially in the complex and palate-stunning sauces, recalls the halcyon days of Abacus, now without its founding chef. Rathbun’s new “Asian flavors” and sushi restaurant reminds me of the glory days of Abacus cuisine. I would go for the sushi bar.Imoto represents a return to Chef Kent Rathbun’s roots. The word imoto means “little sister” in Japanese. That evening had been a roller coaster of poppy, umami-forward, and sweet flavors.

Carmine-red tomato-lemongrass soup came with togarashi wontons that tasted like nothing at all, and roasted-banana Malaysian curry featured overcooked noodles, undercooked sweet potato, and very little depth.Īt the end of one meal, an icy, slushy trio of ice creams left a fat layer coating our mouths. Duck Vietnamese-style spring rolls’ meat was mashed to a paste and pushily accented with a sweet chile condiment and spicy peanut sauce. Slices of tempura avocado with a yuzu tofu cream were mushy, their red-chile batter overly spicy. There is a finesse in the raw bar that places it on par with Nobu and Uchi.īut aside that Thai-style Wagyu flat-iron steak salad, purple-rare and fabulous, almost everything else I tried lacked balance, larded with eager sweetness and exaggerated flavor. Fluffy snow crab had a marine hint and natural sweetness. Delicate snapper, rolled like wavelets, received a garnish of sour-salty plum (ume) and a crackle of crispy tofu skin.

Order sashimi, and it comes in a glass bowl mounded with ice, which glows from within like a swimming pool at night. Imoto’s quality and freshness of seafood is on par, not surprisingly, with Tracy Rathbun’s cousin restaurant, Shinsei. Executive sushi chef Jimmy Duke is one of the city’s handful of chefs who made their way through the sleek, precise style training of Nobu. This is not true of the sushi and sashimi, which are excellent. The result, more often than not, was a disappointing collision. Imoto seems to want to seduce with every East and Southeast Asian flavor could possibly desire, mixed in with Rathbun’s signature vibes. A black dragon roll with dark forbidden rice, shiso, and habanero is one of the most frequent plates to slide across the sushi bar. The vast menu plucks from everywhere: there are nods to Korea is gochujang butter, glances at Japan in cherry blossom-smoked salmon and to Thailand in a rare beef salad with pea tendrils and toasted cashews. Unapologetically in love with fusion, sleek, oozing confidence, the upscale, clubby restaurant he co-owns with his wife, Tracy, opened in June. Imoto, the pan-Asian restaurant that replaced Kenichi in the redeveloped Victory Park, marks Kent Rathbun’s return to the dining scene after a two-year hiatus.